Tips

Cold Glide Tip

Cold and very cold weather means the snow will be very hard. Solid water, snow and ice, continues to shrink (get harder) as the temperature drops. This will mean it is harder to produce the thin water film that is optimal for skis to glide upon. Thus glide moves more toward being a dry friction. The squeaking sounds you hear under the ski is dry friction.

Choosing a good glide wax is very important. We know that glide waxes need to work very well below the coldest allowable race temperature because the snow can be much colder than the air temperature the race jury is using.

The magic answer to this is Ski*go synthetic waxes. Ski*go started this with the famous C380 and has expanded the line to include C75 and P16. These waxes are often referred to as "hardeners", but they more than good enough to be regular waxes too! Who skis at -33C? We do to test the waxes! Zoom, zoom, zoom!!

Here is a typical ski preparation for a cold weather race at -18C with snow that is aged and has a dry to normal humidity. We are assuming you are doing this application at room temperature and the skis are also at room temperature.

Clean glide zones on the skis. Use Ski*go Deep Penetration Basewax to do a molten wipe of the bases. This will raise old wax out of the base. Old wax is likely the wrong wax to glide on. You want to avoid "base mixing". Use Fibretex across the ski bases to remove any "hairies". Dragging hairies will only slow you down. Use Ski*go Basewax a second time, but let it cool as normal before scraping followed by a thorough brushing. This Basewax will form the underlayer that is deepest into the base. This will provide a strong anchor to increase durability of the next layer which means better glide. Apply an underlayer of Ski*go Graphite XC or Ski*go Graphite LF and then let cool for 15 minutes. Scrape once cooled with a sharp scraper with low pressure strokes. Then brush well with a nylon brush. When racing at higher humidities you can use Ski*go Green HF as the underlayer. The Graphite XC/LF (or Green HF) wax will harden the base and enhance the anti-static properties. Now sprinkle Ski*go C380 across the glide zones. The powder should be as even as possible, but it does not need to be perfect; the wax will flow once the iron is applied. Now "tack" the powder down to the base with the iron. "Tacking" is when you step the iron down the ski instead of sliding it. Now iron the Ski*go C380 in the normal sliding motion. Be sure all the wax becomes molten. This will bond the C380 to the underlayers. Let the skis cool for 15 to 20 minutes before scraping with a sharp scraper using short, low pressure strokes. Now brush with a stiff nylon brush very hard to remove the remaining excess and to polish the base. You may make the first 3 or 4 brush passes with a fine steel or fine brass brush lightly to remove remaining excess wax. The base should shine after the polishing. You should see the ski base structure when done. Using roto-brushes is a real timesaver here. For races over 10km we recommend a second layer of C380. This helps ensure excellent coverage on the bases. This method of application if followed will be perfect for a full loppet distance (40 to 70km).

As the humidity rises you can use C75 and P16 for the final layer. Similarly for the underlayer you can use Ski*go Graphite LF in place of Ski*go Graphite. In some instances using Ski*go Green HF as the underlayer to C380/C75/P16 has shown additional glide improvements as the humidity rises. Ski*go Green HF with C380 on top has proven itself regularly with elite racers at the World Cups.

Choose between Graphite XC/LF and Green HF as the underlayer as follows. If the humidity is low (<55%), or the snow condition is new/fine snow use the Graphite. With high humidity, or aged/corn snow use the Green.

If you have a waxing tip please share it with us. We are always happy to receive waxing tips to help improve everyone's skis.